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Fashion India

Phyllida Jay

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This lavishly illustrated tome celebrates the new Indian designers making a mark on the international fashion scene

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India is set to join the world’s fashion hubs. With a unique creative inheritance, stretching back thousands of years, it is also rapidly making the future – its designers ravishingly original in responding to the creative tensions between Indian and Western, traditional and modern, lavish ornamentation and minimal fashion. Cities such as Mumbai, and its Lakmé Fashion Week, and Delhi are fashion destinations on the world map and are increasingly joined by Pune and Bangalore.

Across India an astonishing range of young fashion designers have seized opportunities provided by fashion shows and the expanding market for boutiques and online retail. In this first systematic overview of the whole phenomenon, the emphasis on the achievements of such young designers as Rahul Mishra, Aneeth Arora and Ruchika Sachdeva is accompanied by the visually vibrant designs of the superstars of Indian fashion – Manish Aurora, J. J. Valaya, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla among them.

Each chapter begins with a general introduction, followed by profiles of the designers interwoven with interviews conducted by the author specially for this book. A wide range of garments, from luxury bridal and ethnic formal wear to contemporary interpretations of the sari, can be seen, as well as the various textiles and techniques used to make them, from traditional craft, including handloom weaving and colour-resist dyed silk, intricate embroidery and appliqué as well as cutting-edge fabrication and construction methods.

Brimming with scintillating illustrations, this mould-breaking and informed account is written by a fashion insider who knows India intimately. It will be essential reading for students of fashion and design, industry buyers, and all contemporary fashion enthusiasts.

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'Dr Phyllida Jay's gorgeous, intelligent book spills over from runways and ramps to a context that includes social, cultural and historical backgrounds on what we know as homegrown fashion'
Grazia India

'Fashion India is an examination of fashion in India but in the broadest possible sense. Phyllida Jay wisely takes on not only fashion in its most literal aspects but also in terms of its traditions, whether it be in style, manufacture, textiles, retailing, embellishments, and history... It is a rather clever and striking device that really informs the reader on multiple planes'
New York Review of Books

'A must-buy for anyone fascinated by India's rich sartorial trajectory'

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Product Information

Book Details

Format: Flexibound PLC with flaps (no jacket)

Size: 23.0 x 17.7 cm

Extent: 256 pp

Publication date: 28 September 2015

ISBN: 9780500292013

Contents List

Introduction; Bollywood: Luxury Bridal and Formal Wear: J.J.Valaya, Tarun Tahiliani, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, Ragavendra Rathore, Anita Dongre, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Anamika Khanna; Crafting and Weaving Indian Fashion: Abraham and Thakore, Wendell Rodricks, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Samant Chauhan, Rahul Mishra, Aneeth Arora, CelDSGN 11:11, Soumitra Mondal, Swati Kalsi; The Whole Six Yards: Continuity and Transformations in the Indian Sari: Sanjay Garg, Gaurav Gupta, Shivan and Narresh; The Art of Indian Fashion: Manish Arora, Dev’r’Nil, Little Shilpa, Payal Khandwala, Kallol Datta 1955; Designing the Boundaries of Indian Fashion: Arjun Saluja, Pankaj and Nidhi, Amit Aggarwal, Eina Alhuwalia; Generation Next: Pernia Qureshi and Pernia’s Pop Up Shop, Yogesh Chaudhary, Ruchika Sachdeva, Josh Goraya, Nikhil Thampi, Sneha Arora, Mrinalini Chandra, Karishma Shahani; Conclusion; Endmatter: glossary, bibliography

About the Author

Phyllida Jay is an anthropologist with a doctorate from University College London. She also works as a business and luxury lifestyle journalist.