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Deborah Turbeville: Photocollage

Nathalie Herschdorfer, Vince Aletti, Felix Hoffman, Carla Sozzani, Anna Tellgren


Timeless, evocative and hauntingly beautiful, Deborah Turbeville: Photocollage presents the work of a truly innovative image maker whose female gaze transformed fashion photography

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American photographer Deborah Turbeville (1934–2013) was a pioneering figure: a woman working in a male-dominated era. Her unique visual signature has been recognizable since her emergence as a major talent in the 1970s with her work featuring in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Nova and The New York Times and for fashion labels including Comme des Garçons, Guy Laroche and Charles Jordan.

This publication focuses on the area of Turbeville’s practice where her genius as an artist can be found: photocollage. In contrast to her contemporaries, Turbeville would deliberately be playful with her images – xeroxing, cutting, scraping and pinning prints together, writing words in the margins and creating narrative sequences. Her work is located far from single, glossy images. It inhabits a liminal zone between art and commerce.

Built upon extensive research in the Deborah Turbeville archive by Nathalie Herschdorfer in collaboration with MUUS Collection, the work shown spans commercial and personal projects, with many images being published for the first time. Supported by texts by Vince Aletti, Felix Hoffmann and Anna Tellgren, and featuring an interview with Carla Sozzani, whose commissions for Vogue Italia played a key role in nurturing Turbeville’s career, this book brings into view the ways in which Turbeville redefined fashion photography, moving away from the sexual provocation and stereotypes assigned by male photographers to an idea of femininity on her terms.

Published in connection with a major, touring exhibition opening at Photo Elysée in Lausanne in late 2023, this is a highly desirable and collectible volume for all who appreciate fashion photography, its history and the image makers who have explored the boundaries of creative expression and experimentation.

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Product Information

Book Details

Format: Hardback

Size: 25.5 x 30.0 cm

Extent: 240 pp

Illustrations: 188

Publication date: 12 October 2023

ISBN: 9780500026212

Contents List

Carla Sozzani on Deborah Turbeville: interview by Nathalie Herschdorfer
The Photographs, interspersed with text by Nathalie Herschdorfer

About the Author

Nathalie Herschdorfer is Director of Photo Elysee-Museum of Photography in Lausanne. Her previous books include Coming into Fashion, Afterwards: Contemporary Photography Confronting the Past and Body: The Photography Book. Deborah Turbeville (1934–2013) was born in Boston, Massachusetts. Her fashion photography featured in Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Nova and The New York Times and for fashion labels including Commes des Garcons, Guy Laroche and Charles Jordan. Her archive is held by The MUUS Collection.