Oscars Fashion Through the Decades

Every year, millions of viewers tune in to watch the fervour and spectacle of the Oscars, especially where the sartorial looks are concerned. Many red-carpet ensembles remain embedded in the cultural zeitgeist far beyond the moment they were photographed – think Bjork’s swan dress in 2001, or the pink dress Gwyneth Paltrow wore in 1999.

The most glamorous night in Hollywood is not just about who takes home a gold statue. Throughout the decades, it is the fashion of the red carpet that has captured the public’s attention. Seasoned players understand the impact of a well-placed outfit on the red carpet and the perceptions it can enforce (or disrupt). Take Bette Davis, who accepted her first Oscar for Best Actress in 1936 wearing a decidedly unglamorous costume originally intended for the film Housewife (1934) − Davis was proving a point about the ‘constricting servitude she felt the studio system was exacting on contracted Hollywood players.’

Looking back on past ceremonies, it is clear how the meticulously styled accoutrements on display often reflect the political and cultural events of the time.  Take a look at nearly one hundred years of the Oscars and the outfits that made history, as featured in Red Carpet Oscars by Dijanna Mulhearn.

1. The First Oscars and the Great Depression
Since its founding in 1927, the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences was positioned to bring together the entire film industry, headed up by the powerful studio bosses of the day, and one of the most successful movie stars: Mary Pickford. It was Pickford − alongside husband Douglas Fairbanks, fellow actor and president of The Academy − who pioneered the idea of a ceremony to celebrate the outstanding achievements of the film industry.

The first ever Academy Awards – the nickname ‘Oscars’ wouldn’t be coined for another decade – was an invitation-only dinner and the winners had been announced months before. Even in its infancy, the Oscars was glamorous, with the Hollywood social set turning up in sumptuous furs and luxurious floor-length gowns.

Despite the austere effects of The Great Depression, the yearly ceremony continued to be an ornate affair. Hollywood studios were determined to create an escape for the audience, reflecting the same opulence found in films. Studio costume designers were often the favourites to create gowns for the stars to wear, solidifying the link between the stars and the studios

2. Gone with the Wind and the War Years
It was at the 12th Academy Awards that Gone with the Wind set the record for number of nominations and wins. The film, based on the 1936 novel of the same name, was nominated for thirteen awards and went on to win eight, including Best Actress, Best Picture, Best Actress, Best Supporting Actress and Best Director.

Best Actress winner Vivien Leigh arrived at the Oscars in a white fur coat that signified star status, but it was her dress that caused something of a stir. A floor-length chiffon gown with a bold pattern of poppies was a personal choice for Leigh, though patterns were not a popular choice at that the time. Leigh’s co-star Hattie McDaniel – the first African American to receive an Oscar, for Best Supporting Actress in Gone with the Wind – also opted for a floral theme, with gardenias adorning her hair and her jacket.

The remainder of the decade would be overshadowed by WWII – the Oscars red carpet reflected the sombre mood, alongside fabric rationing and the prevalence of a more modest ensemble. During this time, structured shoulders and narrow tailored waists in military shapes became popular, reflecting the fervent patriotism of the war effort.

3. The Televised Glamour of the 1950s
The 1950s saw a rise in the popularity of television and in an effort to attract new audiences, the Academy opted to televise the ceremony in March 1953. Three months later, millions of viewers tuned in to watch the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, and by the following year red-carpet fashions reflected the same regal and elaborate style. The years of understated finery during World War II were a thing of the past.

The 1950s also saw a rise in a new archetype that had a direct influence on the on the red carpet: the Hollywood Princess. With their demure and aspirational sartorial choices, actresses like Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn became the fashion icons we know today. It was also Audrey Hepburn’s arrival at the 1954 Academy Awards in Givenchy − who she met while scouting locations for iconic film Sabrina (1954) – that marked the beginning of couture houses showing up on the red carpet.

4. A New Outlook
By the outset of the 1970s, there was a clear shift in the ideals Hollywood stars seemed to favour. Real, grittier films that addressed social issues head on overtook the classic epic films of decades previous, and a new generation of talent began to appear on the scene.

Fashion began to mirror those sentiments, with younger stars pushing the boundaries of the dress code. Costumes seen on screen began to influence the styles of the day and before long, were reflected on the red carpet with the same gusto. Hemlines and necklines shifted and as the decade went on, even men’s fashion began to show hints of personality with colourful dress shirts and interesting details on their tuxedos.

The older generations of Hollywood and the newer arrivals lead to something of a sartorial melting pot on the red carpet, with inspiration from decades past and current.

5. The Oscars of Today
By the 1990s, the red carpet was a runway show of haute couture and indie designers. The relationship between fashion and celebrity saw the Oscars soar to new heights of fascination and popularity. Designers arrived on the red carpet with their own signature styles, and it was also common for looks to evoke the classic styles of the distant past.

While it might once have been a faux pas to bring politics to the Oscars, the red carpet has now become a moment to make a statement. Players in the industry have chosen their designers with care in order to make a statement, or they add ribbons, pins and other accessories to make clear their stance on an issue. In 2019, Billy Porter wore a tuxedo gown that embraced the gender fluidity dominating the social agenda. During the height of the #MeToo movement, many actors wore pins to support the Time’s Up initiative.

As Red Carpet Oscars author Dijanna Mulhearn remarks, ‘the outfits that capture our imagination reflect more than beauty; they tell a story or make a distinct statement. The traditional red-carpet rules have been rattled as a broader scope of acceptance takes hold, driven by a new generation ready to change the game. The age of the individual is here and a new phase in red-carpet dressing has begun.’